9/F, Evernew House, 485 Lockhart Rd., Causeway Bay, Hong Kong +852 2980 3312
Monday - Saturday, 7-10 p.m.
Hidden on the ninth floor of a grubby building mostly devoted to hostess bars and seedy karaoke joints, Sumi is a cozy private kitchen with a Japanese izakaya feel.
The house specializes in yakitori, such as barbecued ox tongue skewers. Food critic Michael Lam says it's so good it's like "making out with a cow."
Cooked on an open grill behind the bar the barbecued food on sticks includes chicken skin and the sweetest corn on the cob in town.