8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo Bombana

8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo Bombana is gourmet dining done in a jovial, unfussy Italian way. People don't come to dine. They come to eat. 

Chef Umberto Bombana, formerly of the highly regarded Toscana at the old Ritz Carlton, has a zest for good food that translates well at the dining table.

Bombana's robust comfort food, tricky to prepare, shares table space with well-executed truffle dishes for which he is famous.

The classic veal Milanese is an eyebrow-raiser -- rich, sweet, tender, the organic Dutch veal is sliced and dressed at the table.