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CNNGo TV in Buenos Aires: Food, music, sport and more
As CNNGo TV takes to the Argentine capital, we show where you can fill your mouth with cheese and yell at the football coach
It's laid-back and lively. It's brash and it's sophisticated. Buenos Aires covers the spectrum of all things great about city life, and is one of the most exciting destinations for travelers in South America.
CNNGo TV takes a tour of the Argentine capital with CNN Buenos Aires correspondent Brian Byrnes and some local characters to find out where to see and be seen for a taste of the BA lifestyle.
So pick up a little Spanish (you can do so at a Spanglish Exchange event in Buenos Aires, the United States and Europe -- spanglishexchange.com) and let our guides take you through the best of Buenos Aires.
Take a glance at our recommended travel itinerary to get the most out of your trip to the charming Argentine capital:
1. Wander a street market
Buenos Aires is known for its open-air markets and street fairs. But expect more than just trinkets and fruit.
San Telmo Antiques Fair -- the name barely does it justice -- comes alive as dancers on the street do the Argentine tango and singers croon.
Longtime expat, Chicago-native Maya May takes us on a street tour of the outdoor market along Calle Defensa in San Telmo, where you can buy clothing, leather, antiques, food and more.
Along the way, you can hear the funky sounds of modern tango played by El Afronte Orquesta Tipica.
Take a seat at the oldest bar in town, Bar Plaza Dorrego, which was established in 1881. You won't be the only tourist in this joint, but it's worth a visit since this San Telmo bar feels like living history.
The vintage watering hole retains that old-school vibe with the checkered floor, the slow tango music, etched graffiti, and relaxed atmosphere.
Visit the fair on Sundays from 10 a.m-5 p.m.
Bar Plaza Dorrego San Telmo, Humberto Primo 424 y Defensa, Buenos Aires Argentina; +54 11 4361 0141
2. Dine at a private kitchen
If someone prepares you home-cooked food in Buenos Aires it’s a sign of affection. But don't worry if you don’t have a doting Argentine granny, the city has got some cozy private kitchens.
The lines between dinner party and restaurant blur in the intimate setting of one table shared between chatting strangers.
Christina Sunae, a Korean American runs the “closed door” restaurant, Cocina Sunae, from her home. Here you can sample authentic Southeast Asian Cuisine like fragrant Penang curry and crispy khao soi.
Cocina Sunae, Roseti entre Heredia y 14 de Julio, Buenos Aires Argentina; www.cocinasunae.com
3. Eat Fugazetta pizza
This pizza alone could be the highlight of your Buenos Aires trip. Fugazetta is a signature Argentine pizza caked in mozzarella cheese and onions.
It's sometimes served with other ingredients lurking below like olives and ham, but you won’t notice them much as they will be buried under the rich globules of cheese.
This hearty pie will hit the spot whether you’re out to lunch or coming home from a nightclub at 5 a.m.
Another of our expat guides, British writer Daniel Tunnard, took us to the historic Banchero Pizza shop on Av. Corrientes, the “Broadway of Buenos Aires.”
Tunnard also took us to his favorite record shop, Bird, named after the old-school bebop jazz saxophonist Charlie Parker who went by the nickname “Yard Bird” or “Bird.”
Pizzeria Banchero, Corrientes y Talcahuano Microcentro, Buenos Aires Argentina; +54 11 4382 4669
Bird, Talcahuano 385, Buenos Aires
4. Stroll in Palermo neighborhood
In the hip, bohemian neighborhood of Palermo, you’ll walk into an outdoor museum of graffiti.The streets are populated with eclectic shops, restaurants and cafés.
Palermo is also the city's fashion center, where scores of designers, artists and models work and play. If you are cruising around Palermo, you might run into Felix Busso, a top Argentine fashion photographer, who often does photo shoots in the neighborhood.
Pehache is a funky boutique run by sisters Carolina and Mariana Medina. Or pay a visit to Fueguia, South America’s only “scent laboratory.”
Pehache, Palermo SoHo, Gurruchaga 1418; pehache.com
Fueguia, Cabello 3791, Ciudad de Buenos Aires; +54 11 4806 5619; fueguia.com
5. Attend a soccer match
There’s no excuse not to watch soccer in Argentina. Stand back and watch fans get at each other’s throats, or take part in the action and cheer for the wrong team.
We went to a soccer match at Club San Lorenzo de Almagro with Lucas Markowiecki, who runs Tangol, a Buenos Aires travel agency that specializes in taking foreigners to soccer matches.
6. Dance to a live band
One of the best places to hear live music seven nights a week is La Catedral, a funky warehouse nightclub.
Some nights you'll find Argentine musician Leonardo Martinelli, leader of the band Tremor, which mixes Andean folk with digital cumbia, performing live. Tremor tours around the world, and is a member of the Zizek Collective.
La Catedral, Sarmiento 4006, Buenos Aires Argentina; +54 155 325 1630; www.lacatedralclub.com