Insider Guide: Best of Colorado skiing

Insider Guide: Best of Colorado skiing

Greatest ski resorts in the world? There's enough frontier spirit left in Colorado -- and mountains of world-class food and wine -- to argue the point all winter long

Colorado's Holy Trinity: Powder. Board. Aspen Mountain. Fur-clad socialites and A-list celebrities alongside pickup truck and weekend warrior skiers all living large on slopes glorious enough to give Richard Dawkins religion.

Beats the bus stop. Is there a cozier city park in the world than Aspen's outdoor fire pit?

That may be how the world sees Colorado’s top ski destinations -- we’ll go out on a snow-crusted limb and call them the best in North America -- but the rowdy frontier mountain spirit here still runs as deep as its top-end visitors’ pockets.

With 54 peaks over 4,200 meters, Colorado has no shortage of vertiginous terrain for skiing and snowboarding.

But what makes Colorado such a beloved American ski destination is its arid climate, which produces an abundance of light, fluffy snow and 300-plus days of sunshine.

Though resorts are dotted throughout the sprawling 25,000-square-kilometer state -- Telluride, Silverton and Wolf Creek are up to 580 kilometers from Denver -- a concentration of world-class resorts cluster around Interstate 70 (I-70), within several hours' drive of the capital.

Vail and Aspen Snowmass are the largest, but mountains such as Copper, Breckenridge and Beaver Creek are worth visits for their variety of terrain and extracurricular activities, from open-air hot tubs in swanky mountain lodges to some of the West’s best small town nightlife.

Even a handful of days in the state make it easy to experience the best of Colorado skiing -- thousands of ski trails, occasional celeb sightings and wine-drenched nights included.

This guide kicks off in Denver -- as do most airborne visits to the state -- then winds through the Rocky Mountains along I-70 to spend some time in Vail. Then it's off to Aspen Snowmass before rounding things off with shorter looks at other ski resort/mountain options in the state.


Acclimatizing in the Mile High City

Loaded with different, less snow-involved, fun.

Apart from its inconveniently located airport, Denver is often ignored by ski vacationers and understandably so. Why bother with a city when world-class powder runs await a few hours away?

That said, the city has its own charm and makes a great layover spot -- especially if you need to recharge after a long-haul flight before tackling the I-70 route to the mountains.

Downtime in the Colorado capital can also help you adjust to the higher altitudes that await.

Good restaurants, bars and outdoor gear shops will help make the most of your time.

Denver is also a lot cheaper than Colorado’s resort towns. Rental gear can be organized at many outlets in the Mile High City, although it’s recommended to hire from shops closer to the slopes in case changes or refits are necessary.

Denver hotels

The view will still be here after you come back from skiing. Denver’s hotel scene got a needed boost with the 2010 arrival of Four Seasons Hotel Denver (1111 14th St.; +1 303 389 3000; Rooms from $335 for deluxe king to executive suites starting at $725).

With all the quality you’d expect from the chain, rooms are not overstuffed with those unnecessary and often gaudy flourishes stupidly associated with “luxury.” Instead, the digs are comfortable and contemporary -- and rather difficult to escape, especially if an early departure is planned.

The building is among Denver’s tallest, affording some rooms tantalizing views of the nearby Rocky Mountains.

Four Seasons Hotel Denver, 1111 14th Street, Denver, CO 80202; +1 303 389 3000; Rooms from $335 for deluxe king to executive suites starting at $725


Denver restaurants, bars and nightlife

Denver’s Highland neighborhood (demarcated by West 38th Avenue, Zuni Street, West 32nd Avenue and Federal Boulevard) has been a hip zone for the past decade or more. Lots of locally owned restaurants dot an area that still remains true to its migrant Italian and Mexican history.

Closer to town, 17th Street is a great trawl with a range of bars, diners and restaurants spread over about 10 blocks.

Denver eating options are near limitless. Among a long list:

WaterCourse Foods (837 E. 17th Ave.; +1 303 832 7313) does high-end dining with a big price tag. Vine Street Pub (1700 Vine St.; +1 303 388 2337) is Denver’s branch of Boulder’s Mountain Sun microbrewery. It has a range of beers and large servings of cheap and decent pub grub. A few doors down, The Thin Man (2015 E. 17th Ave.; +1 303 320 7814) is a late-night bar with good drinks and slightly disturbing religious décor.

WaterCourse, 837 E. 17th Ave., Denver, CO 80218; +1 303 832 7313

Vine Street Pub, 1700 Vine Street, Denver, CO 80206; +1 303 388 2337

The always-crowded Sushi Den (1487 S. Pearl St.; +1 303 777 0826) is the state’s best for Japanese. Book well ahead.

Sushi Den, 1487 S Pearl St, Denver, CO 80210-2226; +1 303 777 0826

My Brother’s Bar (2376 15th St.; +1 303 455 9991) not only serves Denver’s best burger -- the J.C.B. jalapeño cream cheese burger is a favorite -- it also arguably employs the city’s best bartenders. Steuben’s (523 E. 17th Ave.; +1 303 830 1001) is a modern diner with great service and atmosphere and a memorable burger with green chili.

My Brother's Bar, 2376 15th Street, Denver, CO 80212; +1 303 455 9991

Steuben's Food Service, 523 E 17th Ave, Denver, CO 80203-1329; +1 303 830 1001

You’ll wait in line for hearty breakfasts at Snooze (2262 Larimer St.; +1 303 297 0700), but won't complain once the food arrives. The sweet potato pancakes are recommended.

The only restrictions to Denver's nightlife are 2 a.m. liquor licensing laws.Denver’s nightlife scene is not lacking for options at all ends of the scale.

Don’t forget, in the United States even 50-year-olds can get carded at bars and restaurants. Bring ID. Some places do not accept foreign driver’s licenses and will demand passports.

Not far from downtown, El Chapultepec (1962 Market St.; +1 303 295 9126) is a local institution, a tiny bar with live music (usually blues or jazz) nightly. It’s a not-to-be-missed attraction -- “Grotty and brilliant!” raved one recent Aussie visitor -- that draws a mixed bag of patrons.

The Cruise Room (1600 17th St.; +1 303 825 1107) at the Oxford Hotel dates back to the Prohibition era. Servers in bowties bringing superb cocktails help class up both you and your date.

Snooze, 2262 Larimer St, Denver, CO 80205; +1 303 297 0700

El Chapultepec, 1962 Market St, Denver, CO; +1 303 295 9126

Cruise Room Bar, 1600 17th Street in the Oxford Hotel, Denver, CO; +1 303 825 1107

Denver shopping

The Cherry Creek North area (bordered by East 1st Avenue, East 3rd Avenue, Josephine Street and Steele Street) is full of fashion boutiques, restaurants, galleries and other high-end independent stores. The nearby Cherry Creek Shopping Center (3000 E. 1st Ave.; +1 303 388 3900) houses the more familiar outlets, from Burberry to Saks, along with smaller, interesting boutiques.

Cherry Creek North, 3003 East Third Ave, Denver, CO 80206; +1 303 388 3900

Cherry Creek Shopping Center, 3000 E 1st Ave, Denver, CO 80206; +1 303 388 3900

Anyone unfamiliar with REI should plan a stop at the massive Denver REI (1416 Platte St.; +1 303 756 3100). Filled with every piece of outdoor gear you can imagine -- and plenty of things you didn’t know existed, but which you’ll immediately need to buy -- the store can suck hours from your life. REI stocks items for almost any outdoor activity and the staff can tell you everything about everything. Browse ahead online if you’re serious about picking up some great buys.
Getting there

Denver airport and driving advice

An airport to match the scenery.Denver International Airport (DIA) is a hub for United and Frontier Airlines, but more than a dozen airlines fly here, including British Airways, Lufthansa and Delta.

All major car rental companies have counters at Denver airport. When heading to the mountains, which are about 120 kilometers west of the city, a four-wheel or all-wheel drive vehicle is preferable.

A number of shuttle companies also offer van service to the ski resorts. You can find them listed on the airport’s website.

Tip: avoid arriving on Friday, when mountain-bound locals clog I-70. Similar issues occur on Sunday's when weekend ski warriors return home.

Alternatively, Aspen (Aspen/Pitkin County) and Vail (Vail/Eagle County) both have small regional airports, serviced by United, Frontier, American, Continental and Delta.

When driving, keep an eye on weather forecasts and news bulletins. Many mountain roads, including I-70, are forced to close during and after major snow storms.

Roads can get icy and driving conditions can quickly become hazardous. I-70 is winding and steep in places, and vehicle accidents are not uncommon.

Allow more time to get from A to B than you think necessary, and seriously consider ticking that insurance box on your rental car form. Road closures can also result missing your flight back at DIA


Ever-evolving superstar

Nobody's actually listening. They're too busy looking around.

Among Colorado’s more than two dozen ski resorts, Vail, 160 kilometers west of Denver, looms largest with some 21 square kilometers.

It's huge. The resort has an astounding menu of terrain options for every stripe of skier or snowboarder. Even more than at most ski areas, it's worth spending time studying the trail map.

On the front side, families schuss down 11 kilometers of beautifully groomed beginner and intermediate runs, while kids, beginners and boarders hit the three terrain parks.

I bet her friends don't lose her with that outfit.On the backside, the seven famed bowls offer wide swaths of tree-free turns that harbor fresh powder for days after a storm. Blue Sky Basin is top-notch, though a bit of a schlep to get to. Lifts that access backside runs start closing around 3 p.m. or slightly earlier. Check notice boards.

In recent years, the resort has upgraded its on-mountain dining with new mid-mountain hot spots like The 10th, which serves rich comfort food such as chicken-and-pheasant pot pie and hand-cut tagliatelle with elk bolognese.

All ranges of dining and drinking options abound in town. There's also a family-friendly ski rink.

As with most ski resorts, tickets are cheaper when bought in bulk ahead of time.

At Vail, domestic travelers are advised purchase tickets online more than seven days beforehand and international customers should purchase 14 days ahead.

Vail Mountain, PO Box 7, Vail, CO 81658;

Vail ski tickets, +1 970 476 5601; US$92-$116 for one day

Vail hotels

Too lazy to take your boots off? Be right at home.Four Seasons Resort Vail
The Four Seasons is perhaps the best reflection of the ongoing revitalization of this beloved ski town. Each room is quiet and large. Nice touches include in-room fireplaces and metal bathtub trays for books, magazines or newspapers, excellent for those who like to linger in the tub.

The highlight of the resort is the Ski Concierge station located at the base of the Vista Bahn chairlift -- a short walk from the hotel along a heated pathway that never ices up. Four Seasons guests can stow ski gear inside, while attendants help kids (or lazy grown-ups) put on or remove boots, as well as offer directions and generally take care of the heaving and hefting business of skiing.

After a day hitting the back bowls, handing skis and boards to an orange-clad Four Seasons staffer at the base of the run home is one of the sweetest ski experiences possible. It’s like flying business class -- once you’ve experienced it, you’ll never want to go crawling back to economy.

Four Seasons Resort and Residences Vail, 1 Vail Road, Vail, CO 81657; +1 303 389 3301; from $295 (low season) to $635 (high season, December-April) per night, mountain view rooms from $335 (low season) to $735 (high season) per night


Stop dreaming. Start booking.Vail Mountain Lodge & Spa
The 27 rooms and condos at Vail Mountain Lodge have all the accoutrements of a luxurious mountain abode: feather beds, fluffy down duvets, gas fireplaces and views of the peaks, to name a few.

But there are also unusual amenities, like the on-site Vail Vitality Center, a spa and wellness center staffed with doctors and trainers. The hotel also houses the award-winning Terra Bistro restaurant.

Vail Mountain Lodge, 352 E. Meadow Drive, Vail, CO 81657; +1 970 476 0700; from $299-$499 per night

Alpine Creek Bed and Breakfast
Thanks to a revolving cast of friendly hosts, Alpine Creek is far more intimate than cookie-cutter ski condos.

The lodge has only two rooms, which have decks and come with a gigantic breakfast, including specialties like frittatas, Belgian waffles and banana bread. Après ski, arrive home to homemade cookies and tea.

Alpine Creek Bed and Breakfast, 1850 S. Frontage Rd. West, #3, Vail, CO 81657; +1 612 850 8092; from $195 per night

Other accommodation: Throughout Colorado, it's easy to rent homes, condos and apartments. VRBO (Vacation Rentals By Owner) is one of the best sites, with options ranging from studios to mansions. On the ground, local information booths and centers can also assist.


Vail dining

Bully Ranch
When dinnertime rolls around, the Bully Ranch fills up fast with locals. The place has built a reputation on American classics like burgers, chicken wings and New York strip steak, but it also serves unique Western dishes like wild game chili and Colorado lamb with root-vegetable hash.

Bully Ranch Restaurant, 20 Vail Rd, Vail, CO 81657-5010; 20 Vail Rd.; +1 970 479 5460; moderate

Sweet Basil
Ever since Vail became an up-and-coming mountain town three decades ago, Sweet Basil has been the standard of the fine dining. Choose from some 500 selections off the wine list, sip an artisan cocktail and try dishes like salmon tartare and a truffle-braised pork cheek raviolo.

Sweet Basil, 193 Gore Creek Dr Ste 201, Vail, CO 81657-4549; +1 970 476 0125; expensive

Kelly Liken
Regarded as one of the top restaurants in the mountains, and certainly among the most sophisticated in Vail, Kelly Liken delivers modern American cuisine. The owner and chef, after which the restaurant is named, runs the restaurant with her husband, who juggles director of wine and general manager duties.

The wine list is impressive with more than 200 selections. The menu changes frequently. Tables seem a little too close together, perhaps aimed at catering better to the restaurant's popularity. As with Sweet Basil, it's advisable to book well ahead, especially on weekends.

Kelly Liken, 12 Vail Rd., Suite 100, Vail, CO 81657; + 1 970 479 0175; expensive

Los Amigos
Hungry skiers often end up at Los Amigos, the local’s go-to for good, fresh, filling and inexpensive sustenance. The restaurant serves traditional Mexican fare such as steak burritos, seafood enchiladas and margaritas.

Los Amigos, 400 Bridge St, Vail, CO 81657; +1 970 476 5847; budget

Vail nightlife

The town seems pretty quiet at night when everyone's at the bar.Bart & Yeti’s

On a warm day, there are few better spots at which to knock back a post-ski beer than the lively deck at Bart & Yeti’s, located in the Lionshead area of Vail. Five o’clock brings dinner specialties like baby back ribs and Southwest green chile.

Bart & Yeti's, 551 E Lionshead Cir, Vail, CO 81657; +1 970 476 2754; budget


Vendetta's makes legendary pizza and pasta, but it’s best known for its wine and beer, which attract locals well into the wee hours. Sidle up to this old standby with goggle-tanned locals, well-heeled visitors and the occasional celebrity. 


Eclectic, elegant legend

If you think about skiing all day long, this is the place to be.

The United States' premiere destination for celeb and top-notch skiers and snowboarders, Aspen's combination of world-class skiing, world-class hobnobbing and world-watch-out American party spirit makes it an unbeatable winter destination.

Despite the glam, Aspen is remarkably down to earth. On weekdays, it's common to see shoes and bags under park benches at mountain bases, waiting patiently for their owners to return from the slopes. Safe as houses.

Between Aspen's four choice mountain resorts -- Aspen Mountain, Aspen Highlands, Snowmass, Buttermilk -- there's enough skiing here to last a full season.

Not that this has stopped many from trying to cram the best of Aspen into a very long and satisfying weekend.

Here's how to make the most of your time in Colorado's toniest ski town.

Aspen hotels


It's Christmas all over again!

St. Regis Aspen Resort

On a quiet edge of downtown, the St. Regis resort epitomizes Aspen’s high-minded side.

Rooms have the requisite marble bathrooms, leather chairs and million-thread-count sheets. Ski valets whisk away equipment at the end of the day, chauffeurs drive guests around town in Mercedes SUVs and butlers cater to zany whims at all hours of the night.

The St. Regis Aspen Resort, 315 East Dean Street, Aspen, CO 81611; +1 970 920 3300; from $699 per night

Plush happens just behind the bricks.Hotel Jerome

You might not need 48 square meters of Premiere King Guest Room after a day on the slopes (that’s the smallest of the rooms in this 94-room-and-suite landmark), but you’ll definitely appreciate the deep soaking tub in each room, plush bathrobes and outdoor heated pool.

The hotel’s Library bar takes pride in its historically accurate pre-Prohibition cocktails. The full service Aspen Club & Spa features 34 treatment rooms.

Aspen’s mountains are majestic. The experience here comes close.

Hotel Jerome, An Auberge Resort, 330 E Main St, Aspen, CO 81611; +1 800 331 7213; from $450 per night


Japan isn't the only place to enjoy a pool and snow. Mountain Chalet Aspen

Local ski bum Ralph Melville built this Swiss-style chalet in 1954, and his family has been running it ever since.

Rooms are simple but comfortable and come with the most important ski-town amenities: a hot breakfast, a location two blocks from the gondola, an outdoor hot tub and free cookies and hot chocolate every afternoon.

Mountain Chalet Aspen, 333 E. Durant Avenue, Aspen, CO 81611; +1 970 925 7797; from $170 per night

Viceroy SnowmassVery nice cocktail lounge. Pretty nice hotel, too.

Situated in Snowmass’s pleasantly sleepy base village, the Viceroy, opened in 2009, is purposefully unstuffy, with a youthful vibe and a retro-cool aesthetic.

Its Eight K Restaurant has some of the village’s most inspired cocktails (consider the Moscow mule with house-made ginger syrup), a 650-square-meter spa with Ute Indian-inspired therapies and one-step access to the slopes.

Viceroy Snowmass, 130 Wood Road, Snowmass Village, CO 81615; +1 970 923 8000; Studios from $225 per night

Aspen dining

A table with a view? How about a whole restaurant?

Cloud Nine Alpine Bistro

Good thing it takes a few calories to get to Cloud Nine, a bistro situated mid-mountain at Aspen Highlands. This tiny restaurant, a former ski-patrol hut, doesn’t skimp on the cheese and carbohydrates.

Euro-style lunches of fondue or Raclette are served with French vino and tempered with best of Colorado views of the mountains from the 1,000-square-meter perch.

Cloud Nine Alpine Bistro, Cloud Nine Lift Aspen Highlands (On-Mountain), Aspen, CO; +1 970 923 8715 (dinner), +1 970 544 3063 (lunch); expensive

Nobu knows best.Matsuhisa Aspen

It’s a testament to Aspenites’ refined taste buds that celebrity chef Nobu Matsuhisa set up shop in this out-of-the-way village.

Matsuhisa is housed in an old Victorian and serves Japanese cuisine with Peruvian and Argentine twists.

Specialties include sea bass with truffle and lobster with wasabi pepper, plus a wide range of sushi with the chef’s dose of culinary magic.

Matsuhisa-Aspen, 303 E Main St, Aspen, CO 81611; +1 970 544 6628; expensive

A bit of blur after the brrr.

Woody Creek Tavern

Some 14 kilometers north of Aspen, the Woody Creek Tavern is a throwback to wilder times, when local Hunter S. Thompson kept a bar tab.

Food is simple, good and inexpensive -- chicken enchiladas are a bar favorite -- and the scenery is entertainingly kitschy.

Photos, postcards, memorials and posters (“Thompson for Sheriff”) plaster the walls, and the colorful clientele includes bikers, cowboys, families and dolled-up Texan tourists.

Woody Creek Tavern, 2858 Upper River Road, Aspen, CO 81611; +1 970 923 4585; budget

Cantina Aspen

For worn-out skiers, there’s little better than a heaping plate of Mexican food at the end of the day.

Cantina Aspen offers old standbys (tacos, quesadillas, tamales, enchiladas) plus novel dishes like baby-back ribs slow-roasted with beer.

The enviable collection of tequilas is served in pitchers of margaritas, snifters or the infamous shot ski.

Cantina, 411 E Main St, Aspen, CO 81611-2945; +1 970 925 3663; budget

Aspen nightlife

Not the hottest in town, but still pretty hot: 39 Degrees Lounge. 39 Degrees Lounge

One might expect Playboy bunnies or stiletto-heeled celebrities to sidle up to the swanky bar of the Sky Hotel’s 39 Degrees Lounge -- and, in fact, they often do.

This is the place to quaff cocktails like the dangerously tasty champagne supernova (it involves elderflower liqueur and white peach puree) and thaw frost-nipped toes by the fire while channeling your inner heiress.

39 Degrees, 709 E Durant Ave, Aspen, CO 81611; +1 970 925 6760

The Red Onion

If a place named onion dates to 1892, there has to be something special about it.

Built in 1892, The Red Onion is rife with the ghosts of Aspen’s wild past. Now helmet-haired locals gather to down pints of New Belgium and hearty bar food like buttermilk-marinated fried chicken.

The Red Onion, 420 E Cooper Ave, Aspen, CO 81611-1832; +1 970 925 9955

It's no secret, the J-Bar scene is Victorian.J-Bar at Hotel Jerome

If not for the Gore-Tex-wearing, iPod-toting clientele, J-Bar at Hotel Jerome would feel like a time warp.

At this vintage Victorian-era bar, clever bartenders opened an ice cream parlor during Prohibition and nonchalantly dosed local miners’ milkshakes with bourbon. Patrons can still taste the concoction -- ask for an Aspen Crud -- but bartenders now serve their whiskey on the rocks, too.

The J-Bar at the Hotel Jerome, 330 E Main St, Aspen, CO 81611; 970-920-1000

Hands up at Belly Up.Belly Up Aspen

One advantage of Aspen’s small size is that it’s easy to find the best party. Almost unfailingly, it’s at Belly Up, a bar and music venue known for wooing big acts to this remote tour stop. At last check, they had artists like Rufus Wainwright, Jane’s Addiction, Lyle Lovett and G. Love and Special Sauce lined up. In the past ZZ Top, Lucinda Williams and Snoop Dogg have played.

Belly Up Aspen, 450 s. Galena Street, Aspen, CO 81611; +1 970 544 9800

Aspen shopping/attractions

Aspen Art Museum

Few mountain towns can claim the caliber of art that Aspen can. A prime example: the Aspen Art Museum, a free public exhibition space that shows contemporary paintings, sculptures and installations by international artists. A new building to house more exhibitions is in the works.

Aspen Art Museum, 637 East Hyman, Aspen, CO 81611; +1 970 925 8050

Aspen mountain is great for hiking, not just skiing. Although the former is easier in summer.

Aspen Center for Environmental Studies

The Aspen Center for Environmental Studies is the town’s go-to diversion for non-skiers. Offerings include snowshoe tours from the top of Aspen Mountain, full-moon wildlife walks and evening slideshows by a rotating cast of naturalists and adventurers.

Aspen Center for Environmental Studies, 100 Puppy Smith Street, Aspen, CO 81611; +970 925 5756

Hayes Silver

Aspen’s shopping generally falls into two categories: outdoor gear or fancy stuff normal people can’t afford.

The latter (Gucci, Burberry, etc.) makes for top-notch window shopping.

One notable exception to the mold is Hayes Silver, a family-run business that crafts custom aspen-leaf belt buckles worn by the likes of Stein Eriksen and Gary Cooper.

Hayes Silver, 209 E. Bleeker St., +1 970 319 1697

Touring and shopping at the same time? Multi-tasking is easy in Aspen.

Aspen Walking Tours

On ski-bum-turned-historian Dean Weiler’s dark side walking tours, visitors listen to spirited tales of Aspen’s past, featuring haunted bars, the old brothel district and spooky hotels.

Aspen Walking Tours, 320 East Hyman Avenue, Aspen, CO 81611; +1 970 948 4349; $20 per person

Aspen skiing

There's no hurry to leave the Sundeck on Aspen Mountain.

Aspen Mountain

Beginner and intermediate runs are impeccably groomed, but it's the scary-steep double diamonds that draw many to Aspen Mountain.

With a base elevation of 2,422 meters, the season is unusually long -- November to mid-April -- and the snow is reliably fluffy.

Of 76 trails, more than half are rated either "most difficult" or "expert," making Aspen Mountain a place for veteran skiers to burn some calories and quad muscles.



Highland Bowl at Aspen Highlands. Prices aren't the only things that are steep.Aspen Highlands

At Aspen Highlands, hike to Highland Bowl, a dramatic cirque with famed high-altitude steeps that tops out at an awesome 3,777 meters. The trip up is almost as invigorating as the ride down.

On the rest of the hill, three high-speed quad lifts keep traffic moving across 118 trails.

This is also where you'll find Cloud Nine Alpine Bistro (see Dining section), probably the greatest high-altitude diner you'll ever find.



Elk Camp Gondola at Snowmass, accessing part of 1,342 meters of vertical drop, the longest in the United States.Snowmass

With 1,342 meters of drop, Snowmass offers more vertical meters of skiing than any ski area in the country.

This resort has also got a stunning variety of terrain, with glades, moguls, groomers, terrain parks and half pipes.

At the top of the Village Express chair, Sam's Smokehouse restaurant puts your hometown ski mountain cafeteria to shame. No need to pack lunch.

Buttermilk terrain park: family friendly? Depends on your family. Buttermilk

Families flock to Buttermilk, renowned for its wide-open and gentle collection of rolling, beginner-friendly trails.

At least 35 percent of the 34 kilometers of trails here are rated "easiest."

However, it's not all tame. Considered one of the top snowboarding hills in the world, Buttermilk hosts the Winter X Games each year. The seven-meter superpipe in the monster terrain park is a boarder's dream.

Aspen ski ticket information

For the best prices at any ski resort, purchase lift tickets at least a week in advance online. All resorts offer deep discounts for multi-day tickets.

Lift tickets are good for all four Aspen Skiing Company mountains (Aspen Mountain, Aspen Highlands, Snowmass, Buttermilk).

Shuttles connect the four resorts all day. +1 970 925 1220; $104 for one day;


Beyond Vail and Aspen

Colorado is stuffed with world-class ski resorts. If you've got time to get around the state, here are five prime mountains to hit.

Already thinking of how to get back up.


Breckenridge is one of Colorado’s heavyweight ski resorts with 31 lifts, a 1,035-vertical-meter drop and some remarkably diverse terrain. It's also easy to get to and from as a day trip from Denver.

Expert skiers head to Peak 8 for double-black-diamond chutes and bowls, intermediates schuss down Peak 7’s groomers and jibbers congregate at the resort’s three famed terrain parks.

The historic mining village itself is worth a detour, with a long line of shops, restaurants and cafes and unusual events like an annual snow-carving competition that attracts international artists.

Stay: The slopes are mere steps from ski-in One Ski Hill Place (1521 Ski Hill Road; +1 877 354 6747; studios about $700), a tony wood-and-stone lodge with an imaginative array of amenities, like a bowling alley, two private movie theaters, an outdoor fire pit and complimentary transportation anywhere in town. Accommodations include studios, four-bedroom condos and everything in between.

One Ski Hill Place, A RockResort, 1521 Ski Hill Road, Breckenridge, CO 80424; +1 877 354 6747; studios about $700

Two blocks from Breckenridge’s historic Main Street, the Fireside Inn (114 North French St.; +1 970 453 6456; dorms from $31 and doubles from $75) offers cozy, inexpensive doubles, family rooms and dorm-style accommodations. Come evening, skiers gather to swap slope stories in the hot tub or over tea by the fireplace.

Fireside Inn, 114 N French St, Breckenridge, CO 80424; +1 970 453 6456; dorms from $31 and doubles from $75


Last one down ...

Copper Mountain

Sandwiched between Breckenridge and Vail on I-70, Copper Mountain has a lot to live up to. But with four challenging high-altitude back bowls, beautifully spaced glades and Tucker Mountain, a backcountry-like area serviced by a free snowcat, it measures up with style.

At Woodward at Copper, the first indoor ski and snowboard training facility, riders can perfect jumps on trampolines and a spring floor before hitting the terrain parks.

Copper Mountain Ski Area, 209 Ten Mile Circle PO Box 3001, Copper Mountain, CO 80443; +1 888 219 2441; $99 for one-day ticket

Stay: In historic nearby Frisco, the same family has run the Victorian Frisco Lodge (321 Main St.; +1 970 668 0195; $100-$200) for more than 50 years. They have the details of hospitality down. Stay in a cozy room furnished with antiques, sip complimentary aprés-ski wine and pick out constellations around the outdoor fire.

Frisco Lodge, 321 Main Street PO Box 1325, Frisco, CO 80443; +1 970 668 0195; $100-$200

Hotel Frisco (308 Main St.; +1 970 668 5009; Rooms from $124) is a slightly more contemporary option, with simple, clean rooms featuring log furniture, a library with games and books, a tea and coffee bar and a hot tub that overlooks Mount Royal.

Hotel Frisco, 308 Main St, Frisco, CO 80443; +1 970 668 5009; Rooms from $124

Can you hear the "swoosh?"

Beaver Creek

With skier escalators, ski valets and plates of free cookies come evening, Beaver Creek certainly lives up to its motto: “Not exactly roughing it.” But a little known fact: in addition to its groomers, the resort also harbors some rough-and-tumble skiing -- nearly 40 percent of its seven square kilometers are marked “expert.”

Don’t miss the expert Black Bear and Royal Elk glades and the ultra-fast Birds of Prey downhill course.

Beaver Creek lift tickets, +1 970 754 4636; $92-$105 for one-day lift ticket;

Stay: The 24-suite Poste Montane Lodge at Beaver Creek (76 Avondale Ln.; +1 970 845 7500; Rooms from $200 with four-night minimum) looks just like a traditional European ski lodge -- and its hospitality is just as refined. After a day on the mountain, guests enjoy a soak in the hot tub, partake in a complimentary wine-and-cheese reception or kick back in the classy wood-paneled reading room.

Poste Montane At Beaver Creek, 76 Avondale Lane, Beaver Creek, CO 81620; +1 970 845 7500; Rooms from $200 with four-night minimum



Guess who won?

A tidy collection of candy-colored Victorians in a steep box canyon, Telluride is easily the state’s most gorgeous ski town.

Luckily, its isolation in Colorado’s southwestern corner translates to zero lift lines and seven largely empty square kilometers.

Though it has a nice menu of wide groomers like aptly named See Forever, Telluride is best known for its challenging expert terrain, like the Gold Hill Chutes and Black Iron Bowl.

Telluride Ski Resort, 565 Mountain Village Blvd., Telluride, CO; +1 970 728 7335; $106 for one day;


Where the Champagne is shredded, not poured.

Despite its claims to birthing the most Olympians of any ski resort (79 and counting) and harboring Colorado’s best snow (they coined the term champagne powder), Steamboat’s vibe is notably laid-back.

After exploring the resort’s prized terrain features, like the glades of Pioneer Ridge, Sunshine and Storm Peak, tuckered skiers hit arguably Colorado’s best après-ski spot: Strawberry Park Hot Springs.

Steamboat Ski Resort, 2305 Mount Werner Circle, Steamboat Springs, CO 80487; +1 970 879 6111; $80-$99 for one day;