Insider Guide: Best of Dublin
That’s what you likely know about Dublin, and Dublin’s got ‘em.
There are approximately a thousand pubs in the Irish capital, or one for every thousand Dubliners. James Joyce once said it would make a great puzzle trying to cross the city without passing a pub.
So you know you’re gonna have your Fair City’s share of Guinness while you’re here, but we want to make sure you’re doing it in a proper joint.
We also want you to see the rest of Dublin, because whether you know it or not, this city is among the oldest and most culturally endowed in the world -- just don’t tell Dubliners that.
The museums are free, the literary legacy rich and the city park (Phoenix, 707 hectares) the largest in Europe -- not that your odds of a sunny day to see it are very good.
Just a few rudimentary Dublin rules to follow:
1. If someone buys you a drink, buy them one back.
2. Ditch the windbreaker and pack a brolly (umbrella).
3. Don’t rely on Dublin Bus drivers for ... anything.
4. And, for pity’s sake, let that Guinness settle first!
With the basics covered, we present the best of Dublin shops, restaurants, attractions and, yes, pubs in which to put these essential rules into practice.
This traditional hotel enjoys an enviable location just off Dublin’s main shopping thoroughfare, Grafton Street.
Recent renovations have given new life to The Westbury’s classic atmosphere: flourishes of modern decor take on an Asian-meets-Western aesthetic with cool, rich tones.
Each of The Westbury’s 205 rooms includes custom-designed furniture, Lissadell bedding, Sealy mattresses and Aromatherapy Associates toiletries, as well as iPod docks and Nespresso machines.
Though the onsite Marble Bar is more modern than its name suggests, the menu has a nice selection of bubbly and Irish whiskeys.
The Westbury is one of the few places in Dublin where one can still partake of traditional afternoon tea.
Grafton Street, Dublin, 2; +353 1 679 1122; from €250 (US$300) a night; website
Owned by Bono and The Edge of U2 fame, this riverside hotel is all class, with its bright oak woods and chocolate leathers.
With 49 rooms -- many of which overlook the River Liffey -- The Clarence qualifies for boutique status, but without all of the bombast that characterizes many designer hotels. Colors are muted and classic, and furnishings are hand-crafted by Irish artisans.
The Clarence is also known for its best of Dublin Octagon Bar and accompanying octagonal glass dome, which is where its rock star owners first fell in love with the hotel and decided to buy it. Well-founded rumors suggest they can often be seen drinking here when in Dublin.
6-8 Wellington Quay, Dublin 2; +353 1 407 0800; from €160 a night; www.theclarence.ie
Comfy and friendly, the Harding Hotel is situated on Fishamble Lane, where Handel’s "Messiah" premiered in 1742. More specifically, it’s located directly across from Christchurch Cathedral, which is visible from some rooms, and is within walking distance of all of Dublin’s main sights.
The Harding exemplifies the Irish term “cheap and cheerful."
Rooms are basic and smallish, but well maintained, with modern furnishings and soft mattresses. Rooms are also outfitted with free Wi-Fi.
The downstairs bar, Darkey Kelley’s, is an old school Dublin pub.
The Harding’s onsite restaurant, Copper Alley Bistro, serves a simple menu of Irish favorites.
Copper Alley, Fishamble Street, Dublin 2; +353 1 679 6500; from €99 a night; www.hardinghotel.ie
While Dublin may not be known for its dining scene, restaurants such as Hugo’s are carving the city’s path to “culinary capital” undaunted.
Firmly rooted in French and European cuisine, Hugo’s chef Didier Rhodes draws on fresh and artisanal Irish ingredients to create combinations for the restaurant’s ever-changing menu.
Emphasis is placed on hearty Irish meats and plenty of seafood -- the local shellfish and prawns are excellent -- paired with inventively prepared seasonal vegetables.
Hugo’s French bistro-like blue exterior, complete with twinkling candles, is almost as charming as the menu. With some 30 varieties available by the glass, the wine list leaves few wanting.
6 Merrion Row, Dublin 1; +353 1 676 5955; open daily noon-11 p.m.; expensive; www.hugos.ie
The Pig’s Ear
Overseen by chef Stephen McAllister, known for his cooking shows on national Irish TV, the Pig’s Ear is bringing to Dublin a touch of the “death of fine dining” trend so prevalent across the pond in London.
Seasonal Irish ingredients are cooked inventively, but approachably.
The restaurant’s location in an Georgian building overlooking Trinity College doesn’t hurt -- creaky wooden floors, high ceilings and big windows lend to the Pig’s Ear’s a country-chic vibe.
The whiskey and citrus-cured salmon is a particular delight, as is the puntastic “tongue ‘n’ cheek” Guinness pie.
4 Nassau St., Dublin 2; +353 1 670 3865; Monday-Saturday: noon-2:45 p.m., 5:30-10 p.m.; moderate; www.thepigsear.ie
Dunne & Crescenzi
This chic Italian spot is a labor of love for Irish-Italian couple Eileen Dunne and Stefano Crescenzi, who opened it after relocating from Rome in 1999.
Originally a shop, the business grew steadily into the full-fledged restaurant and wine bar it is now.
While it may be a power-lunch destination for local politicians and media types from the government offices across the street, jeans-clad tourists are equally welcome to sit at the simple brown tables and enjoy Dunne & Crescenzi’s best of Dublin cheese plates, bruschetta selection and fresh mozzarella bar.
14-16 S. Frederick St., Dublin 2; +353 1 675 9892; Monday-Saturday: 7:30 a.m.-11 p.m., Sunday: 9:30 a.m.-9 p.m.; moderate-expensive; www.dunneandcrescenzi.com
Epicurean Food Hall
If you didn’t know the Epicurean Food Hall existed, you might never find it, despite it being located on a busy section of Lower Liffey Street just over the Ha’penny Bridge.
Taking the idea of “food court” to a different level, the Epicurean Food Hall is tightly packed with different international vendors peddling everything from artisanal Irish sandwiches to Turkish food and quick pastas.
The tacos at aptly named Taco Taco are among the most authentic Mexican on offer in Dublin. Plenty of seating is available in the center of the hall and the small-price-for-heaping-portion philosophy here represents great value for lunch on a budget.
1 Lower Liffey St., Dublin 1; +353 1 283 6077; Monday-Wednesday: 8 a.m.-8 p.m., Thursday-Saturday: 8 a.m.-9 p.m., Sunday: 11 a.m.-7 p.m.; budget; www.epicureanfoodhall.com
Temple Bar Food Market
It wasn’t so long ago that Dublin was a culinary wasteland.
But as times have changed, so has the food landscape of the city, especially the bohemian Temple Bar district, which now hosts a food market each Saturday.
More than a farmers' market, this is a place to come and eat, to grab some seriously fresh Irish cheese, pesto and a loaf of bread baked that morning and sit along the Liffey for a picnic.
Seafood lovers will also want to sit down for a bucket of oysters and glass of wine at St. Martin Shellfish; John Mac gets his oysters from the Atlantic each Friday and they’re in your stomach by Saturday morning.
Meeting House Square, Essex Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2; +353 1 677 2255; Saturday: 10 a.m.-4:30 p.m.; budget; Food Market website
John Kavanagh (aka Gravediggers)
For the few and proud who can find their way to this North Side fixture, it's the best pub in all of Dublin.
Operated by the namesake family that established it in 1833, “Gravediggers” sits beside the sweeping Glasnevin Cemetery. It earned its nickname by purportedly serving lunchtime pints to Glasnevin’s gravediggers through a special window onto the graveyard.
John Kavanagh is old and wooden and about the only thing they pour here is Guinness. And it's good.
In recent years, the owner has begun serving top-notch Irish-Italian fare in an adjoining room, which has drawn such foodie celebs as Anthony Bourdain.
You have to take a bus and walk up an all-but-invisible alleyway to reach Gravediggers, but there's something unabashedly wonderful about the place that keeps regulars coming back for lifetimes.
1 Prospect Square, Glasnevin, Dublin 9; +353 1 830 7978; Monday-Thursday: 10:30 a.m.-11:30 p.m., Friday-Saturday: 10:30 a.m.-midnight, Sunday: 12:30 p.m.-11 p.m.; budget
To find out what a Dublin pub looked like a couple of hundred years ago, one need look no further than Mulligan’s of Poolbeg Street, which has been in continuous operation since 1782.
The wood floors are permanently damp from generations of beer slosh, the pew seating is uncomfortable and the ceilings are lower than men of average height might prefer, but it all adds to Mulligan’s ambiance.
It has been said many times that Mulligan’s pours the best Guinness in Dublin. If you drink only one pint of the good stuff in Dublin, Mulligan’s is the place to do it.
8 Poolbeg St., Dublin 2; +353 1 677 5582; Monday-Thursday: 10 a.m.-11:30 p.m., Friday-Saturday: 10 a.m.-12:30 a.m., Sunday: 12:30 p.m.-11 p.m.; budget; www.mulligans.ie
The Black Sheep
One of the first of its kind in Dublin, the Black Sheep is an ale pub that serves the precious few (and delicious) craft beers made in Ireland.
Styled on a modern British gastropub, the vibe is shabby chic, complete with mismatched tables and chairs, board games and a vaguely homey ambiance -- yet still bright, owing to its multi-windowed corner location.
On tap are several Galway Bay Brewery ales and other heretofore rare-in-Dublin Irish craft beers, which come and go according to what’s available. The Black Sheep also offers a menu of gastropub fare, though the focus here remains on the brews.
61 Capel St., Dublin 1; +353 1 873 0013; Monday-Thursday: 10:30 a.m.-11 p.m., Friday-Saturday: 10:30 a.m.-12:30 a.m., Sunday: noon-11 p.m.; moderate; website
Bowe’s is one of those pubs that no Dubliner can fault and yet few tourists see.
Just far enough off the beaten path to be nigh invisible to visitors, yet only two minutes’ walk from the Temple Bar area, Bowe’s is small and atmospheric, with deep, worn wood throughout and stained glass dividers that suggest a different era.
With little in the way of seating, Bowe’s is largely a standing-room affair, but if you can suffer that, these are among the best pints of Guinness and friendliest crowds in the city.
31 Fleet St., Dublin 2; +353 1 671 4038; Monday-Sunday: noon-late; moderate; www.doylesintown.com/bowes_bar
The Long Hall
Another firm favorite among Dubliners, The Long Hall is an old school pub with seriously ornate Victorian flair and the type of classy management that keeps Dublin pub-goers happy.
In addition to perfectly poured Guinness and the usual suspects of international lager, The Long Hall is known for serving potent gin and tonics.
Barmen at this best of Dublin pub still wear white shirts and black ties, a sign that this is truly a historic establishment.
If there was any question, one peek inside at the filigreed mirrors and carved wooden snugs (enclosed booths) assuages any doubts about the Long Hall’s historical antecedents -- and, for that matter, its beauty.
51 S. Great George's St., Dublin 2; +353 1 475 1590; Monday-Wednesday: 4 p.m.-11:30 p.m., Thursday: 1 p.m.-11:30 p.m., Friday-Saturday: 1 p.m.-12:30 a.m., Sunday: 3 p.m.-11 p.m.; moderate
Traditional Music Pubs
Traditional Irish music, or simply "trad" as it’s known in Ireland, used to be a way of life; a mode of entertainment in the tiny villages and local boozers within which Ireland’s social life has always been centered.
While the popularity of daily trad may have waned in modern decades, there are still numerous pubs around Dublin where traditional Irish music lives on, much as it has for centuries.
The mark of a good trad session is one that is unplugged, with musicians seated around a regular pub table, knocking into one another with their fiddles and accordions and drinking far, far too many pints.
Though plenty of mucky, plastic music calling itself trad is to be found in the more obvious tourist pubs, here are a few where the real thing is still treasured:
Cobblestone, 77 North King St., Smithfield Square, Dublin 7; +353 1 872 1799; Monday-Tuesday: 9 p.m.-close, Wednesday-Saturday: 7 p.m.-close, Sunday: 2 p.m.-close; budget; www.cobblestonepub.ie
O’Donoghue’s, 15 Merrion Row, Dublin 2; +353 1 660 7194; Monday-Thursday: 10:30 a.m.-11:30 p.m., Friday-Saturday: 10:30 a.m.-12:30 a.m., Sunday: 12:30 p.m.-11 p.m.; moderate; www.odonoghues.ie
Grace's, 2 Rathgar Rd., Dublin 6; +353 1 497 4345; Monday-Thursday: 9:30 a.m.-11:30 p.m., Friday-Saturday: 9:30 a.m.-12:30 a.m., Sunday: 9:30 a.m.-11 p.m.; budget
The Stag’s Head, 1 Dame Court, Dublin 2; +353 1 679 3687; Monday-Saturday: 10:30 a.m.-1 a.m., Sunday: 10:30 a.m.-midnight; moderate; www.louisfitzgerald.com/stagshead
The Brazen Head, 20 Bridge St. Lower, Dublin 8; +353 1 677 9549; Monday-Thursday: 10:30 a.m.-11:30 p.m., Friday-Saturday: 10:30 a.m.-2:30 a.m., Sunday: 10:30 a.m.-11 pm; moderate; www.brazenhead.com
Dublin’s main shopping area runs right through the city center, south of the River Liffey. Now a pedestrian-only zone during business hours, Grafton Street owes much of its lovely ambiance to the red brick with which it was paved.
Stretching for several "blocks" -- if Dublin had such things -- Grafton Street is the Irish equivalent of a British high street, boasting many international and local stores and the famed Irish department store Brown Thomas, in case you’ve a hankering for Chanel or Gucci.
Though often incredibly crowded with shoppers, especially on a Saturday, Grafton Street is a one-stop affair for clothes hounds and musos alike. At the south end, the Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre is a beautiful wrought iron Victorian shopping arcade home to even more well-known brands.
Dublin 2; moderate/expensive
Irish mammies love Avoca for its undeniably cute selection of things ladies love, from clothing to kitchen and housewares.
The company was formed out of an old Wicklow-based woolen mill, but today has updated its sensibilities to appeal to women of a certain aesthetic; the sort of “ladies who lunch” who can’t resist picking up a new hand-woven throw after a wine-soaked midday snack at Avoca’s wholesome café.
Avoca is a great alternative to the rather tawdry Irish gift shops, especially when seeking take-homes for the gal or gals in your life.
11-13 Suffolk St., Dublin 2; +353 1 677 4215; Monday-Wednesday and Saturday: 9:30 a.m.-6 p.m., Thursday-Friday: 9:30 a.m.-7 p.m., Sunday: 11 a.m.-6 p.m.; moderate; www.avoca.ie
The Gutter Bookshop
As many of the little, independent bookshops have died out in Dublin, so the Gutter has remained a stalwart little light of bookish goodness in Temple Bar.
Although decidedly neater, tidier and cuter than you’d expect a boho bookshop to be, the Gutter is stocked with a hearty selection of books (including, naturally, a wonderful section by Irish authors), as well as staff who’ve actually read them.
The Gutter also offers a regular lineup of activities, including reading groups, book launches and quirkier cultural to-dos, such as its Valentine’s Day “book speed dating” event, designed to introduce customers to their perfect reads.
Cow’s Lane, Temple Bar, Dublin 8; +353 1 679 9206; Monday-Wednesday and Friday-Saturday: 10 a.m.-6:30 p.m., Thursday: 10 a.m.-7 p.m., Sunday: 11 a.m.-6 p.m.; budget; www.gutterbookshop.com
If you like what you've heard in Dublin's Irish music pubs, recorded versions of both traditional and modern roots tunes are in abundance at Celtic Note, one of the most prestigious and long-standing music stores in town.
As the name suggests, the shop concentrates on Irish and Celtic music, but you’ll also find a mix of international fare, including jazz, bluegrass, classical and folk, as well as one of the largest ranges of Irish rock and pop in the country.
The shop also stocks Irish-interest DVDs and music-related books, and on any given day, you could turn up to find a big name artist giving an in-store performance.
14-15 Nassau St., Dublin 2; +353 1 670 4157; Monday-Wednesday and Friday-Saturday: 9 a.m.-7 p.m., Thursday: 9 a.m.-8 p.m., Sunday:11 a.m.-6 p.m.; moderate; www.celticnote.com
George’s Street Arcade
Precious little Victorian-era British architecture has survived (or, indeed, was ever constructed) in Dublin, but the George’s Street Arcade is one example.
This long, airy shopping arcade was constructed of iconic red brick and wrought iron and now houses a series of shops in the permanent retail spaces along each side, as well as more temporary stalls down the middle, selling records, vintage clothing and knickknacks.
George’s Street is worth a stop as much for its architectural beauty as for the fun of digging through the vendors’ goodies, and Simon’s Coffee Shop at the west end is a perennial favorite for unemployed locals to hobnob or laze over The Irish Times.
S. Great George’s Street, Dublin 2; Monday-Wednesday and Friday-Saturday: 9 a.m.-6:30 p.m., Thursday: 9 a.m.-8 p.m., Sunday: noon-6 p.m.; budget; www.georgesstreetarcade.ie
Ireland is a country known for its literary contributions to the world, but it would be a shame to overlook Ireland’s contributions to the artistic world, many of which are housed here in the National Gallery.
The collection’s 15,000 Irish and European works date from the 13th to mid-20th centuries and include paintings, prints and national portraits.
Particularly prized is the Yeats Collection, comprising works and other materials related to Irish painter Jack B Yeats, brother of poet and playwright WB Yeats.
Merrion Square West, Dublin 2; +353 1 661 5133; Monday-Saturday: 9:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m., Thursday: 9:30 a.m.-8:30 p.m., Sunday: noon-5:30 p.m.; free; www.nationalgallery.ie
Old Jameson Distillery
Most people skip this surprisingly modern museum of whiskey in favor of the museum of a well-known stout, but the Old Jameson Distillery really is a Dublin must.
Instead of a do-it-yourself walkabout, this guided tour opens with a (thankfully) short, informative film and is conducted by guides who really know their stuff.
The tour covers the basics of whiskey distilling, but also gives you a foundation in what distinguishes Jameson from other whiskeys and whiskies, and culminates with a free tasting.
Tip: stand near the front of the group and act quickly when the guide asks for volunteers -- you’ll be treated to an extended tasting at the end.
Bow Street, Smithfield, Dublin 7; +353 1 807 2355; moderate; tours.jamesonwhiskey.com
This white, cast-iron bridge over the River Liffey has become an icon of Dublin, with its ornate design and quaint lampposts.
The Ha’penny Bridge is so named for the toll of one halfpenny originally charged to cross it.
When it was built in 1816, the Ha’penny Bridge was the first iron bridge across the Liffey. Prior to its construction, most pedestrians had to ferry across the river.
Parks and Gardens
Admittedly, Dublin doesn’t have the greatest reputation when it comes to weather, but because of its “all four seasons in one day” phenomenon, you’re likely to get at least one patch of blue sky almost every day.
And when the sun comes out, Dubliners will be skipping work and donning their once-a-year shorts in these public (read, free) green spaces:
St Stephen’s Green, South end of Grafton Street, Dublin 2; gardens open Monday-Saturday: 7:30 a.m.-dark, Sunday: 9:30 a.m.-dark; Website
Merrion Square Park, Merrion Square, Dublin 2; +353 1 222 5278; hours vary seasonally; Website
Phoenix Park, Parkgate Street, Dublin 8, +353 1 820 5800; open daily 24 hours; www.phoenixpark.ie
National Botanic Gardens, Botanic Road, Glasnevin, Dublin 9; +353 1 804 0300; hours vary seasonally; free; www.botanicgardens.ie
Iveagh Gardens, Clonmel Street, Dublin 2; +353 1 475 7816; Monday-Saturday: 8 a.m.-close, Sunday: 10 a.m.-close (closing hours vary seasonally); Website
Trinity College Library
A must-stop for any first-timer to Dublin, Trinity College is the equivalent of Ireland’s Ivy League university, and its Old Library is truly a sight to behold: stacks upon stacks of teetering ancient wooden bookshelves that seem to go on and up for miles.
Admission includes a visit to the Book of Kells, an ornate manuscript of the Gospels, which Celtic monks decorated by hand in the ninth century.
Trinity College, College Green; Dublin 2; +1 353 896 1127; hours vary seasonally; €9; www.tcd.ie/library
Dublin Writers Museum
Ireland’s contributions to the literary world are catalogued in this modest, but appealing, museum.
The Dublin Writers Museum covers three centuries of Irish literature, with exhibitions showcasing the life, works, materials and personal items of some of the country’s literary icons, from WB Yeats to Frank McCourt.
18 Parnell Square, Dublin 1; +353 1 872 2077; Monday-Saturday: 10 a.m.-5 p.m., Sunday: 11 a.m.-5 p.m.; €7.50; www.writersmuseum.com
Chester Beatty Library
Though Dublin seems an unlikely place to find a fantastic collection of Asian arts, the Chester Beatty Library is chock full of gorgeous objects from Asia.
The library’s exhibitions build on the personal collection of one Alfred Chester Beatty -- who was born in the United States and was later made an honorary Irish citizen -- and who traveled the world collecting from bazaars and markets.
Dublin Castle, Dublin 2; +1 353 407 0750; hours vary seasonally; free; www.cbl.ie
If the proverbial writer loves to drink, then Irish writers are professional imbibers.
Some of Ireland’s most acclaimed writers, from James Joyce to Brendan Behan, have celebrated Dublin’s pubs by either immortalizing them in prose or downing pints by the dozen within them.
These are a few of the best that remain wonderful pubs even outside their literary connections:
Palace Bar, 21 Fleet St., Dublin 2; +353 1 671 7388; Monday-Thursday: 10:30 a.m.-11:30 p.m., Friday-Saturday: 10:30 a.m.-12:30 a.m., Sunday: 12:30 p.m.-11 p.m.; expensive; www.thepalacebardublin.com
Davy Byrne’s, 21 Duke St., Dublin 2; +353 1 677 5217; Monday-Wednesday: 11 a.m.-11:30 p.m., Thursday-Friday: 11 a.m.-12:30 a.m., Saturday: 10:30 a.m.-12:30 a.m., Sunday: 12:30 p.m.-11 p.m.; www.davybyrnes.com
McDaid’s, 3 Harry St., Dublin 2; +353 1 679 4395; Monday-Thursday: 10:30 a.m.-11:30 p.m., Friday-Saturday: 12:30 a.m., Sunday: 12:30 p.m.-11 p.m.; expensive; www.facebook.com/McDaids-Dublin
Toners, 139 Lower Baggot St., Dublin 2; +353 1 676 3090; Monday-Thursday and Sunday: 10:30 a.m.-11:30 p.m., Friday-Saturday: 10:30 a.m.-12:30 a.m.; moderate; toners.iping.org