Chote Chitr: Sometimes surly, always good

Sometimes surly, sometimes charming, the proprietress of Chote Chitr, a hole-in-the-wall restaurant in one of the city’s best food neighborhoods, has been cooking the same recipes her grandfather used nearly 100 years ago.

The menu is huge and she’s happy to offer her recommendations. Ask about the banana flower salad.

The word’s gotten out though, so chances are the place will be crowded. But just ignore the others and the horrible decor and pretend this was a personal discovery.